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INTRO  The beginning, history or legends?   The terroirs   The grape varieties   Noble rot   Wine-making secrets  download PDF 

The low yields result automatically from high sugar concentrations, and intense aromas are due partly to the action of botrytis, which is capable of reducing a potential harvest of 40 hl/ha to just 18 hl/ha. Furthermore, the effects of botrytis would be wasted on characterless, poor quality grapes that result from the application of intensive production techniques. The wisdom and expertise of winegrowers have led to the introduction of winegrowing methods designed to produce low, high-quality yields.
The average vineyard density is 6,500 to 7,500 vines per hectare. Organic fertilisers are used sparingly, and only to ensure that the natural balance of the humus is maintained. The most important technique is pruning back the vines severely, in order to respect the tradition that has been handed down over the centuries: one to three glasses of Sauternes per vine. The Sauvignon Blanc variety is often pruned using the Guyot single method (five or six fruit buds), whilst traditional Sauternes pruning is by far the most widespread for Semillon and Muscadelle. A goblet shape is formed by three canes trained on an equal level. Each cane has one spur pruned back to two or three buds in order to obtain just six to eight bunches of grapes. These techniques produce wines that are very different from those of estates with abundant yields of 80 to 100 hl/ha and who make dull, neutral Semillion wines almost totally devoid of aromas or taste.

The same exacting standards and dedication are also applied to winemaking procedures. From the harvest right through to bottling, Sauternes winemakers show a real passion for their profession. This involves making difficult choices or even innovative experimentation conducting light of experience gleaned from both ancient traditions and the latest discoveries in oenology.
The principle behind this delicate, highly-individual science is that prevention is better than freating. In some châteaux, the wine is made in batches, each batch representing one day’s harvest. Elsewhere the old tradition is continued by separating outstanding musts with a potential of 22 to 24 degrees for a special reserve. Other estates harvest the Sauvignon Blanc as soon as it is ripe, to retain its aromatic finesse and acidity in order to produce fresher more vigorous wines, whilst producers of heady, more full-bodied Sauternes wait for the maximum amount of noble rot to set in. It goes without saying that no estate mixes grape varieties before fermentation. The blending process comes much later.

Although a small number of great growth estates gently crush the grapes in order to obtain more colour and to add complexity to the wine, in general this method is not used due to the risk of oxidation. Direct or indirect pressing requires great care and careful adjustment, irrespective of whether the traditional vertical basket press, the horizontal basket press or the pneumatic press is used. The first pressing, which provides three quarters of the must, has an excellent flavour although the two subsequent pressings have a higher sugar content. Operating gently and slowly, with great respect for the grapes, the pressings produce the real quintessence of fine wine grapes, well-balanced, slightly sweet taste, full of sugars. Fermentation will only start after a long, overnight cold-racking of the must, to eliminate organic debris, pips and skin.

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